Marlins Park marks the thirty-seventh Major League baseball stadium in which I have seen a professional game.
For the most part, it's a record that I share with my good friend, Tim, although we both have seen parks separately that no longer exist (like Tiger Stadium Candlestick Park, and Forbes Field). He and I set out on the buddy ballpark circuit eleven years ago. The goal at the time: to visit every Major League baseball stadium. Thirty teams. Thirty parks.
We weren't so foolish as to think we should do it in 30 days, or in some "Great Race" around the map. This wasn't about record books or our names in the paper. We like baseball. A day at the ballpark beats a day just about anywhere else. And, we looked forward to spending time in cities that we'd never visited or only passed through. Just like a baseball game, we weren't on the clock. If the pursuit went into extra innings (which it did, more on that below) then so be it.
The parks and seeing a game were the objective. The first season we took in games on two separate trips in seven different locations: Sun Life (Marlins), Tropicana Field (Rays), Yankee Stadium, Shea Stadium (Mets), Fenway Park (Red Sox), Veterans Field (Phillies), and Camden Yards (Orioles). Travel plans focused on attending as many games as we could in a concentrated area over a week to ten-day stretch, then booking the trains and planes and tickets to get us to the stadiums. We would see a single game, check the park off our list, and then head to the next.
Not the best approach, for a number of reasons. The very first park we visited, Sun Life Stadium in Miami, the game was interrupted by a two-and-a-half hour rain delay. No wonder the "Fish" (as fans and opponents call the Marlins, and an appropriate name at that) could only draw 6,000 fans on average to a game. Who wants to drive to an ugly ballpark -- which was actually a converted football field -- and sit for hours watching it rain in hopes that maybe the game would be played? Since we only had tickets for a single game and needed to drive back to Tampa to see a game there the next day, we spent a couple of hours wondering if we'd have to come back to officially tick Sun Life off the baseball park checklist. After all, it was about
seeing a game in a ballpark, not just showing up to take a tour in the offseason. About four beers into the delay, we didn't really care.
Tim saved us from future moments like this. He suggested we follow our hometown Rockies, to watch them play, and that we book a series rather than a single game. Much better. So, the pattern settled us into a fan's dream. Check the schedule. Find a cheap airfare to a city we had not yet visited and see a couple of series away every spring and summer.
In 2010 we cheered on the Rockies to a series sweep in Great American Ballpark in Cincinnati, which completed our tour. It wasn't intentional, but saving the Reds for last seemed appropriate, since they were the first professional team in American baseball, and thus the oldest baseball franchise in the Major Leagues.
What sent us into extra innings was a flurry of new stadiums built post-2001. Our wives heaved a premature sigh of relief when we came home from Cincinnati. But, we weren't really finished. Tim and I knew we'd have to see the new ballparks. And that's what we've been doing as they appear, much to our wive's dismay. The Phillies, Tigers, Nationals, Twins, Padres, Cardinals, Mets, Yankees, and Marlins all built new parks after we had seen their old ones. We've now seen all but the two new New York ballparks. The most recent was Marlins Park earlier this week, eleven years after our last trip to Miami, that memorable near rainout at Sun Life Field.
What a difference a decade makes. The Fish opened their new park this season and the combination of a good team plus new facility is drawing something like 25,000 fans per game. Marlins Park has a retractable roof to deal with the unpredictable weather (which came in handy since a storm the second day in town flooded areas in Doral, where we were staying). There is also a bank of enormous windows behind the leftfield concourse that frame an impressive view of the Miami skyline and can be opened when the weather allows. The groundskeepers are wrestling with the natural turf, which is still a work in progress. They are trying to find a balance between grass varieties and the limitations of Miami weather -- rain and wind and heat -- which have made it hard to keep the roof open long enough to nourish any growing thing. I'm certain that's why the grass looked pale and on the verge of giving up the ghost before season's end.
But overall, Marlins Park is right up there with the best of the new stadiums. I would vote for the concourse as an especially fan-friendly feature. It's wide and allows you to walk around the park and see the field from any location. Seats are also wide to accommodate fan's spreading behinds. We sat down the 3rd and 1st base lines for two games, field level, and enjoyed great views. Felt like we were a part of the game. We also sat for one game in right field, but couldn't see the Jumbotron scoreboard, high above center field, which is a minus. Twice the shame, because it's also one of the best in the majors -- programmed with all the relevant stats for pitchers and hitters, with graphics in high resolution.
The Red Grooms "homerun feature" in center field gives the field a funky vibe. In a naming contest, fans dubbed it the Marlinator. Like all of Groom's art, color and whimsy predominate. He squeezes a fantasitical kingdom into the 75 ft. tall sculpture -- dolphins and seagulls and flamingos, palm tress and sunshine and waves --most with moving parts and laser lights that go berserk when a Marlin's ballplayer hits a home run. I'm with the fans who think it captures the spirit of Miami -- tropical, garish, post-modern. Its $2.5 million cost set off some laser lights with taxpayers, and batters complained that it interfered with sight lines from the left side of the plate. But, the complainers have been shouted down and adjustments made, so that everyone is happy for now.
My other favorite feature is the Bobblehead Museum, a glass-enclosed display of cheesy figurines representing ballplayers from every team and era. Again, this seems something in tune with the Miami vibe -- kitschy and shallow, but who cares, when the sun in shining and the alligators are napping. When they put in a feature that celebrates invasive species and over-development, the circle will be complete.
A last feature of the ballpark that deserves comment is its location. Marlins Park rose from the rubble of the Orange Bowl, smack dab in the middle of Little Havana. The neighborhood surrounding the park looks rough at first glance, and it certainly won't win any awards for architecture or public spaces.
Poor urban residential pretty much sums up what I saw.
But Little Havana is also known for its street life, outstanding restaurants, cultural activities, and mom and pop businesses. So, although I didn't see the surge in restaurants and bars that have grown up around new ballparks like Coors Field in Denver. those kinds of trendy new developments may not be necessary here. The key is getting folks to arrive early and hang around after a game. As fans become more comfortable with how to get to and from games, they may also budget some time to spend outside the park, enjoying what the locals have to offer, like cuisine from every Spanish-speaking country in the universe. Right now, about the only offering is from enterprising homeowners in the immediate vicinity around the stadium, who were out with cardboard signs advertising $20 in and out parking on lawns and driveways on the days we were there.
So I hope the ballpark not only pulls in more fans but spreads them out into the surrounding neighborhoods. The public continues to subsidize billionaire owners of sports franchises by building new arenas and fields on the taxpayer's dime. Always these handouts come with the promise of rejuvenation of areas surrounding a sports facility and jobs for locals. Wouldn't it be great to finally see something like that happen in Little Havana?